Monthly Archives: February 2009

Lunar New Year Party Debrief (with recipes)

Party Stats

First guest arrived: 7:30 pm

Number of Guests: 19

Culinary Concoctions Served: 11

Number of fights over sustainably-raised cattle that nearly came to fisticuffs: 1

Last guest departed: 2:15 am (was also the first guest and had one arm in a cast from shoulder to finger.  What a trooper!)

After a couple of last-minute cancellations and finding myself behind schedule, I scaled back the menu and kept it to canapes and cocktails, followed by 4 appetizers, a noodle bar with three sauce choices, and two desserts.  Here is a PDF file of the menu with recipes.

Continue reading Lunar New Year Party Debrief (with recipes)

Oxtail Steamed Buns… or Not

Gregorian New Year has passed and Lunar New Year is upon us, which means I needed to grind out some new recipes for Saturday’s Lunar New Year Dinner Party.

It’s the Year of the Ox, which is a little more enticing than year of the rat, so I went straight to the ox for inspiration.  This lead me to oxtail, which is actually part of a cow, but I’m not going to stress about it.  I was going to make BBQ pork buns (like Cantonese Cha siu bao), but I have been told that the OMG ribs needed to happen again (I bought over ten pounds of ribs) and that would mean a lot of pork among the starters, so I worked up a recipe for Oxtail Steamed Buns.

— Needle scratching across the record and the music stops —

The Beer Braised Oxtail (recipe far below) was great, but not suited to a steamed bun, so I went back to the more traditional pork.  The method works fantastically well, because I made the meat and sauce in a crockpot, but let it cook down until the liquid was sticky and didn’t cover the meat so the top got charred and developed a barbecue flavor.

BBQ Pork Buns (Cha siu bao)
3 pounds pork shoulder
1 teaspoon 5-spice
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup hoisin
1/4 cup mirin
1/4 cup honey
1/4 cup oyster sauce

  1. Cut pork into 2-inch strips and sprinkle with 5-spice.
  2. Combine other ingredients in crock pot and add pork.
  3. Cook on low for 10 hours (and then it sat on “warm” another 8 hours, but I am not sure if that was essential).

6 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup white sugar
1 3/4 cup warm water
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons shortening

  1. Dissolve sugar in water, and add yeast. Let stand for 10 minutes/until frothy.
  2. Sift flour and baking powder into a large bowl. Add shortening and yeast mixture and knead until smooth and elastic.
  3. Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover with cling wrap and allow to rise in a warm place for 2 hours, or until tripled in volume.
  4. Flatten a golf ball size lump of dough into a 4-inch disc, place a 1-inch ball of meat in the middle and wrap dough to encapsulate the meat.
  5. Let completed buns sit in the steamer baskets another 30 minutes and then steam for fifteen minutes.  Serve hot.

Beer-Braised Oxtail

  • 1/4 cup soy sauce
  • 1/4 cup hoisin sauce
  • 2 tablespoons high quality oyster sauce
  • 1/4 cup mirin
  • 1/2 teaspoon 5-spice powder
  • 3-4 pounds oxtails
  • 1 cup beef stock
  • 1 can beer
  1. In a bowl (or in your crockpot if inner bowl is removable!), combine soy, hoisin, oyster sauce, mirin and 5-spice powder.
  2. Add oxtail to bowl, submerging in sauce, cover and refrigerate overnight.
  3. Add beer and stock, stir, cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 hours.

Shopping List

Wow, this is epic.  Here’s my ingredient/shopping list based on my recipes, with a few omissions that I haven’t planned yet for the noodle course.  Strikeouts mean I already had it on hand, or I have already picked it up on one of my many recent market runs.  Choosing to give up my car and take the train makes buying several hundred dollars worth of groceries a challenge.

Apéritif: Tet-Nis Shot

Amuse Bouche: Oxtail Pâté

Starters: BBQ Pork Buns, Crab Mangoon, OMG Ribs, Spring Rolls

Noodle Course: Rice noodles, Peanut Sauce, Asian Pesto Sauce,

Coconut Curry, Beef Pho with Oxtail, Skewered proteins, veggies and aromatics

Dessert: Haupia with pineapple pearls

Digestif: Orange Slice Jello Shots

Shopping List

Booze

  • Campari
  • Sweet red vermouth
  • Shiso-infused vodka
  • Port
  • Vodka

Meat and Fish

  • 3 pounds oxtail
  • 3 pounds pork shoulder
  • 1 (8 ounce) package faux crab legs
  • 10 pounds pork spareribs
  • 1 pound shrimp

Spices

  • fennel seeds
  • tumeric
  • red pepper flakes
  • cinnamon stick
  • vanilla Bean
  • five-spice
  • cumin
  • star anise

Vegetables

  • 1 shallot
  • 4 green chili peppers
  • 8.5 inches ginger
  • 9 cloves garlic
  • 2 carrots
  • 1 daikon radish
  • 1 medium cucumber
  • 1 small head romaine Lettuce
  • 2 bunches cilantro
  • 40 scallions
  • 1 1/4 cups Thai basil
  • 1 cup mint leaves
  • 1 large onion
  • 1.5 cup bean sprouts

Fruit

  • 6-12 oranges
  • 2 mangoes
  • 1 blood orange
  • 6 limes

Bottles and Cans

  • green peppercorns sub capers
  • mirin
  • beef stock
  • soy sauce
  • honey
  • Sesame oil
  • Sriracha
  • rice vinegar
  • 2.5 cup maple syrup
  • 1 tablespoon chili garlic paste
  • Oil for deep-frying
  • 1 cup peanut butter
  • Oyster sauce
  • 2 bottles hoisin sauce
  • 1 cup veggie broth
  • 2.5 cup chicken broth
  • 8 cups beef broth
  • 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes
  • 3 14-ounce cans coconut milk
  • 1 bottle fish sauce
  • 1 can Pineapple juice

Dry Goods and Starches

  • all-purpose flour
  • white sugar
  • baking powder
  • chopped peanuts
  • active dry yeast
  • shortening
  • 2 packages wontons
  • 15 Rice paper rounds
  • rice stick noodles
  • flat rice noodles
  • Orange Jello

Dairy

  • 1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese
  • 1 cup whole milk

Chemicals

  • Sodium Alginate
  • Calcium Chloride

Recipe: Oxtail Pâté

The amuse bouche to start my Lunar New Year dinner party necessarily features oxtail surrounded by Asian elements. I just wish it were prettier.

1/2 pound braised oxtail
1 shallot, finely diced
1 tablespoon butter
2 teaspoons fresh-squeezed blood orange juice
1/4 teaspoon drained bottled green peppercorns
1 teaspoon braising liquid
1/4 teaspoon salt
dumpling size wontons, quartered and deep-fried
pickled carrots and daikon radishes, jalapeno pepper and cilantro (optional)

  1. Remove meat from fat and bones, reserving 1 tablespoon braising liquid.
  2. Saute shallot in butter for 3-4 minutes.
  3. Combine all ingredients, except wontons in a food processor and pulse until smooth.
  4. Serve at room temperature on crispy wonton crackers.
  5. Garnish with pickled shreds of carrots and daikon radish, paper thin jalapeno rings and a small cilantro leaf.

Culinary Flashback: Bove’s Vodka Sauce

At the Fancy Food Show, I met a lovely lady from my home town who brought up Bove’s, the institutional Italian family restaurant in Burlington, Vermont. My first thought was of longing for their incredible vodka sauce (particularly over cheese ravioli with meatballs), which is now being sold in stores nationally.

My second thought was of a girl long-forgotten.  After flirting through a grad class and a few after-learning cocktails, she invited me over for dinner the following week with the lure of her “amazing homemade vodka sauce.” As promised, the penne alla vodka blew my mind. It was zesty, creamy, smooth and utterly enchanting.

If I hadn’t offered to do dishes, I might be married to that girl today.  I opened the trash can to scrape out a salad bowl, and there sat an empty jar of Bove’s.  I can abide a liar, but not a gal who doesn’t recycle.

Chipotleâ„¢ Vinaigrette

About three times a year, I eat at Chipotle, the burrito subsidiary of chain restaurant formerly partially owned by McDonald’s.  I’m not judging if it’s your favorite “Mexican restaurant,” but I live in a city with amazing Mexican food and only go to the chain if I am in dire need of expeditious eats.  It’s less than a block from my office, and even when the line is a mile long, it only takes 5 minutes to be served.

I order the oft-neglected salad, not because it’s carb-conscious, since I order tortilla chips too, but because of the smoky, tangy tub of chipotle-honey vinaigrette that comes with it.  This stuff must be bad for me, because it tastes so good.  I drizzle a little on the salad, but save most of it to dip my chips.

I’m guessing you could make something similar or better by vigorously shaking up the following:

1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup fresh-squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon dijon mustard
2 teaspoons honey
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon pureed chipotles in adobo
a pinch of cilantro, minced
2-3 tablespoons olive oil

If that’s too tangy, I may swap out some of the lime juice with orange juice, and a little zest from either would be a nice touch.

I’ll give it a try next week and post results as a comment.

Lunar New Year Specialty Cocktail: The Tet-Nis Shot

“An aperitif guaranteed to inoculate you against bad luck in the year 4707” (2009 on the Roman calendar)

1 part Campari
1 part Sweet Red Vermouth
1 part Shiso-infused Vodka

Shake with ice and serve up.

It’s a variation on the Negroni, substituting shiso-infused vodka for gin to give it a little Asian aromatic quality, while maintaining the bright red color and medicinal, herbaceous bitterness.

If you don’t get the name, Tet is the word for Lunar New Year in Vietnam, as in the Tet Offensive.  Hmmm…. “Tet Offensive” sounds like a good name for another Lunar New Year cocktail.

Lunar New Year Dinner Party 2009 (4707 on the Chinese Calendar)

Happy Year of the Ox!  My Lunar New Year’s resolution is to not spend this year’s party in the kitchen.

Here’s a link to last year’s menu and my tentative menu for this year is below.  I’ve been too busy to revamp the entire thing, so I am bringing back some favorites with new additions, including a couple of oxtail dishes.

Apéritif:
Tet-Nis Shot

Amuse Bouche:
Oxtail pâté on crispy wontons

Starters:
BBQ Pork Buns (test batch with oxtail not great)
Crab Mangoon
OMG Ribs
Vietnamese Spring Rolls

Noodle Bar:

Rice and egg noodles
Peanut Sauce
Asian Pesto
Coconut Curry
Beef Pho broth with oxtail
Grilled meat and tofu skewers
Veggies and aromatics
Dessert:

Haupia with pineapple juice pearls
Yuzu Fro-Yo (?)

Digestif:
Orange slice jello shots

Note: I realize that oxtail is really just cow tail, but whatever.