Nermo

Have I ever mentioned that I’ve mapped out the concept for my first cocktail bar?  As incredibly pretentious as it sounds, the theme is Freudian, fin-de-siecle Vienna, but way more fun and playful than that makes it seem.

I won’t get into it more than that, because I have surely horrified you, but one of my favorite bar snacks from when I lived in Austria, which will certainly be on the menu, is Liptauer, a zesty cheese spread that’s easy to make in advance, and can be served simply.

Liptauer

• 16 ounces cream cheese
• 2 cups cottage cheese
• 4 tablespoons capers
• 8 gherkins, chopped
• 1 tablespoon + 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• Pinch of salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 teaspoons caraway seeds
• 2 teaspoons course-ground mustard
• 2 tablespoons canola oil

1. In a food processor, whip the cream cheese and cottage cheese until very smooth.
2. Add everything but the oil and last 1/2 teaspoon paprika, and blend to incorporate.
3. Transfer the spread to a quart-size bowl or a half-dozen ramekins.
4. Drizzle the oil over the top and slap some plastic wrap over it and refrigerate at least 2 hours.
5. Serve cold with crisp bread or crackers and more gherkins. Some people like a little red onion as well.

I’ve been sick, so I’ve been eating a lot of soup.  Now that I have drained every Thai and Vietnamese restaurant in the neighborhood, it’s time to make my own.  I want something creamy and coating with strong flavor, since I can barely taste anything. This recipe requires no skill and is simple, but even more so if you have a mandolin slicer and an immersion blender.

• 1/2 stick unsalted butter, plus more for other nefarious purposes
• 3 medium size leeks, cleaned and dark green ends removed but reserved
• 1 quart broth or stock (chicken, beef, veg, whatever – you can even use bullion)
• 3 medium-large Yukon gold potatoes
• 1 cup milk
• 1 cup cream
• 1 cup buttermilk
• salt and pepper

1. In a medium-size stock pot, melt butter over medium low-heat, add the leeks and cook uncovered for 30 minutes, until soft, stirring occasionally.
2. While the leeks are cooking, peel and slice the potatoes as thin as possible. This is where the mandolin comes into play, because if you can cut paper thin, the next step can take 20 minutes instead of 40.
3. Add the broth and potatoes, and let simmer, covered, until potatoes start to break down, stirring occasionally. Don’t be startled; the broth becomes a thick, starchy goo as soon as it reaches a boil.
4. Turn off the heat and blend until smooth, if need be, in a traditional blender in batches.
5. Stir in all the dairy products, season to taste and bring slowly back up to temperature if need be. Finish with a knob of butter stirred in at the end.
6. For garnish, lemon zest, and/or take the leftover green parts, slice thinly across the grain and saute over high heat in butter until crispy.

On assignment from Newman’s Own, I shot my first ever cooking video. They were kind enough to furnish me with snacks and a video camera to shoot this piece, as well as a replacement for the first camera, which didn’t work. Now that we have the federally mandated compensation disclosure out of the way, I will just say that I had fun shooting this, but it was kind of stressful.  I think that has a lot to do with working in a small, counterless kitchen, but it was a rewarding experience, and I think I might just do this again.

I always knew my mac was money, but it was nice to get an affirming 2nd place medal at the SF Food Wars Competition last week!

Here is the recipe. You may want to scale it back.

The Crusty Vermonter

Makes approx. 800 bites (you had to be there)

• 5 pounds elbow pasta
• 2 sticks salted butter
• 2 sticks unsalted butter, plus more for pans
• 12 cups panko flakes
• 2-pound bag shredded Mexican cheese blend
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 4 teaspoons black pepper
• 8 pinches (1/3 teaspoon?) red pepper flakes
• 3 quarts whole milk
• 1 quart heavy cream
• 4 pounds Velveta
• 3 pounds Flagship Cheddar
• 1 pound Beehive Seahive Cheddar
• 1 pound Beehive Promontory
• 1/2 pound asiago
• 1 pound fontina
• 1/4 cup dijon mustard
• 3 tablespoons sriracha (more or less to taste)
• 3 pounds chorizo, cooked (recipe here)
• 2 pounds prosciutto, finely chopped
• 5 granny smith apples

1. Preheat oven to 400, and cook the pasta in salted water (the only salt used in this recipe, so don’t forget). Butter four 12×20-inch aluminum pans and grate cheese while pasta cooks. Drain the pasta, reserving 3 cups pasta water.
2. Working in 4 batches, combine 3 cups panko and 1/2 pound Mexican cheese blend in large ziptop bags, shaking to combine. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons salted butter and integrate one batch panko-cheese blend, melting to integrate. Remove from pan and set aside, rebagging when cool. Repeat with 3 remaining batches.
3. In a large pot over medium heat, melt the unsalted butter and add flour, red pepper flakes and black pepper, stirring constantly for 3 minutes.
4. Whisk in milk, bring the sauce to a boil, whisking constantly and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Add cream, cheese, mustard, sriracha and pasta water, and turn off the burner. Stir until sauce is smooth.
6. Incorporate the cooked pasta and chorizo, and pour into the buttered pans.
7. Top each pan with 1/2 pound prosciutto and bake 10 minutes.
8. Spread panko mixture across the top and bake another 10 minutes.
9. Julienne apple over the top and serve with a side of spicy slaw or homemade pickles.

When I mentioned to my friend Christopher that I was putting chorizo in my mac and cheese, he mentioned that his father makes a mean chorizo and offered me the recipe.  I hadn’t considered making it myself, and although I didn’t follow his dad’s recipe to the letter, it was a great jumping-off point.  Here is the recipe I created:

Photo above by Tavallai

Chorizo Recipe

• 1 tablespoons white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon dried tarragon
• 1 tablespoon rendered bacon fat
• 1 pound of Jimmy Dean All-Natural Pork Sausage
• 1 tablespoon rubbed sage
• 2 tablespoons chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon cumin (if your chili powder is light on cumin)
• 1/ teaspoon oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh black pepper

1. Combine tarragon and vinegar and let sit out overnight.
2. Add vinegar and bacon fat to sausage and knead until uniformly loose.
3. Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl and knead into the sausage until evenly distributed.
4. Refrigerated overnight in a zip-top bag.
5. Over a hot, dry skillet, snip off a bottom corner of the bag to create a 3/4-inch hole. Squeeze the chorizo onto the pan until the resulting sausage snake covers approximately half the pan.
6. Working with a wooden spoon, break apart and flatten the sausage, turning as needed, until the sausage has browned and separated into small pieces.
7. Remove to a bowl and repeat until all of the sausage is cooked.

I love Brussels sprouts, but I was getting a little bored with the usual preparations.  Here’s the alternative.

Brussels Sprouts

1/2 pound bacon

1 pound brussels sprouts

2 large shallots

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 tablespoons maple syrup

salt and pepper

1 pomegranate (optional)

1. In a large saute pan, cook the bacon until crispy, remove to a cutting board (don’t drain) and dice.
2. Pour off the bacon fat and wipe out the pan with a paper towel, but don’t wash.
3. Cut off the stem end of the brussels sprouts and place any loose leaves into a large mixing bowl.
4. Slice the brussels sprouts thin with a knife or with mandolin, peel shallots and slice into the thinnest rings possible and add both to the bowl.
5. Drizzle olive oil and maple syrup into the bowl and toss everything to coat evenly.
6. Return pan to  high heat until almost smoking.
7. Working in small batches, fry sprouts, seasoning with salt and pepper.
8. Plate sprouts in a mound and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds.

I realize my mac and cheese recipe is a beast, so I am fine tuning it for people who don’t want a 30-pound batch (fools). This one (barely) fits in a standard 8×8 Pyrex baking dish. With the proper cheddar, it is probably the best mac and cheese in the entire world.

Macaroni and Cheese

3/4 pound elbow pasta
4 tablespoons unsalted butter plus more for the dish
1.5 cup panko flakes
1 pound extra sharp cheddar
4 ounces Monterrey Jack
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1.5 cups whole milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 rounded teaspoon dijon mustard
1 teaspoon sriracha (or other hot sauce)
Optional: 1/2 cup cooked mushrooms, chorizo, or cubed ham; a handfull of fried shallots or crumbled bacon.

• Note 1: the only salt used is in the pasta water, so season the water before adding noodles.
• Note 2: In place of a baking dish, you can use several ramekins for individual portions. These can also be frozen before baking.

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees, butter a square Pyrex baking dish and grate cheese while pasta cooks.
2. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/4 cup pasta water.
3. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter and integrate the panko and one cup of cheese. Remove from pan and set aside.
4. Return the pan to the stove and melt the remaining butter.
5. Add flour and pepper and stir constantly over medium heat for three minutes.
6. Whisk in milk, bring the sauce to a boil, whisking constantly and simmer for 3-5 minutes to thicken.
7. Add cream, cheese, mustard, sriracha and pasta water, and turn off the burner. Stir until sauce is smooth.
8. Incorporate the cooked pasta and pour into the buttered baking dish.
9. Spread panko mixture across the top and bake 12-15 minutes or until golden brown on top and bubbly.

My intern demanded that if I were to justify her labor, she should learn a thing or two, so we made dinner together last night.  I had a 3.5 pound brisket in the freezer from Edgar (the grass-fed cow I split with friends) and she was craving mashed potatoes, so this is what we whipped up.  The whole meal was made with one pan and one bowl, so she wouldn’t have too many dishes to do.

• 3.5 pound beef brisket
• 1 bottle red wine (minus 2 glasses, which we drank)
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon worchestershire sauce
• 1 quart beef stock
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• All-purpose flour
• 8 cloves garlic
• 1 14-ounce bag frozen pearl onions
• 4 yukon gold potatoes
• 2 large shallots
• 6 medium carrots
• 3 celery stalks
• 1 large sweet potato
• 1 cup dried stone fruit
• Fresh thyme, for garnish (mysteriously absent from these photos)

1. Season the brisket all over with kosher salt and fresh ground pepper (we used about 1 tablespoons each) and refrigerate for at least an hour.
2. Set the oven to 350 and deal with peeling your veggies and cutting them into 1-inch pieces.
3. In a large, oven-safe pan, simmer the wine and bay leaf over medium heat until the liquid is reduced by half.  Discard the bay leaf, and add worchestershire sauce, and stock.  Pour the liquid into a non-reactive bowl and set aside.
4. Return the pan to the stove, add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and turn up to high.
5. Remove the brisket from the refrigerator and dust with flour.  Once the oil is shimmering and nearly smoking, seer the meat for 4 minutes per side, until well browned.
6. Remove the pan from heat, lift the brisket with a pair of tongs and pour the pearl onions and garlic into the roasting pan to form a single layer and then place the brisket on top.
7. Pile the remaining veggies around the brisket and pour in the wine sauce.
8. Cover the pan (foil is fine if it is too tall to put a lid on it) and put it in the oven until the meat it fork tender, about 2 hours.
9. Remove the brisket to a board to rest for 10 minutes.
10. While the meat rests, pour off and reserve the roasting liquid and mash the vegetables in the pan before plating (For gravy, return 1 pint of cooking liquid to the pan with a tablespoon of butter and a pinch each of basil, oregano and thyme.  Return to a simmer and whisk in 2 tablespoons flour,  simmering 7 or 8 more minutes, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Season with salt and pepper as needed).
11. Plate a flattened scoop of mash, topped with fanned slices of brisket, drizzle with gravy and garnish with fresh thyme.

I got great feedback on these meatballs yesterday, even from professional chefs who asked me about technique and seemed impressed, and one gal told me she loved them because they reminded her of her mother’s home cooking in India. I thought I would share the recipe.  It makes a big batch, but they freeze well.

Lamb Meatballs

makes 96 golf ball size meatballs

• 5 large shallots, cut into pieces
• 5 cloves garlic
• 2 tablespoons bacon fat
• 2 tablespoons cumin
• 1 tablespoon allspice
• 1 tablespoon cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons coriander
• 3 tablespoons salt
• 2 tablespoons pepper
• 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 4 large eggs
• 1 2/3 cups breadcrumbs
• 5 pounds ground lamb

Blend shallots and garlic in food processor until nearly a paste but still chunky.  Saute shallots and garlic in bacon fat for five minutes, until soft, but don’t allow to brown.  Add spices and stir for a couple minutes to make a paste.  Allow to cool for a few minutes so it doesn’t cook the eggs, then stir in syrup and eggs and then bread crumbs.  Incorporate thoroughly into the lamb and refrigerate one hour.

Preheat oven to 375 and split the meat into 6 equal pieces, split each of those into 4 equal parts and then quarter those quarters and pack each into a sphere (Note, after the first few, you will get a sense for how the proper size feels in your hands and you can add from bigger ones to bolster the smaller ones). Arrange on two sheet pans and bake 12 minutes, flipping once half way through.

Shakshouka is the Israeli equivalent of Huevos Rancheros or the Turkish dish Menemen. Here’s my take on the theme, which makes an amazing, complete breakfast that will impress.

If you are expecting a date to end after breakfast, or you are having someone over for brunch and would rather hang out over coffee than over the stove, you can make this dish the night before, then just reheat it, crack in some eggs and toss it in the oven for a few minutes.

This dish is also great because you can make with just one pan, one knife or a mandolin and one spoon.

Huevos Kibbutz

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
1 roasted green pepper, thinly sliced
1 roasted red pepper, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 small bay leaf
1 1/2 cups canned diced tomatoes
Salt and pepper
3 large eggs
1/4 cup grated parmesan or any other cheese
1/4 cup chopped scallions
Crusty bread

1. Add the oil to an ovenproof skillet and cook the onion and garlic over medium heat until the onion becomes soft and translucent. Add peppers and cook for 2 minutes. Add the paprika, red pepper flakes, cumin, sugar and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes to the skillet and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down, about 20 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and season with salt and pepper to taste.

— This is where you can let the pan cool, cover it and toss it in the fridge overnight.—

3. Preheat oven to 400. Bring the sauce back to a simmer on the stove (this would also be a great time to toss in some chopped up, cooked bacon, if you’re into that sort of thing), then crack the eggs over the sauce and transfer the pan into to the oven and bake until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still soft and runny, about 7 minutes. Garnish with cheese and scallions and serve immediately with crusty bread for dipping.

Note: To roast peppers, hold them with tongs over the flame on a gas stove until black and blistered on all sides, then rub off the skin under cool tap water.